Visiting Lake Trasimeno from Borgo di Vagli

A few weeks ago, I outlined some of the many attractions of the Val d'Orcia. Another excursion popular with our hamlet owners is visiting Lake Trasimeno from Borgo di Vagli. So, today, a few pointers on what to include on a trip to the lake and its environs.

View of out over Lake Trasimeno

Firstly, I have to say that we are very lucky to have such a large lake near Borgo di Vagli - indeed, Lake Trasimeno is the largest lake in Italy outside of the northern Italian Lakes District. It's only slightly smaller in area than the Lake of Como but of course much shallower and therefore with murkier water. For this reason, the lake is not suitable for swimming nor for strolling along the shore which consists mostly of reedy marshlands. The accessible parts of the shoreline can be crowded in summer. My recommendation is therefore to visit some of the charming villages on the hillsides above the lake by car and to enjoy the beautiful panoramic views out over the lake.

By the way, Lake Trasimeno is not only a destination for the views, cool breezes and enjoyable villages, it's also of significance to history buffs. During the Second Punic War, the Battle of Lake Trasimeno (Trasimene) took place here on the 21st of June, 217 BC (April in the Julian calendar). Hannibal's Carthaginians defeated the Romans led by the consul Gaius Flaminius in one of the largest and most successful ambushes in military history. In less than four hours, the Roman army was annihilated. When you visit the battle site near Passignano, take a good guide book to help conjure up the past!

Back to the present. Of the towns on or near the lake, my favorites are Castiglione del Lago and Panicale.

Castiglione del Lago and Lake Trasimeno

Castiglione del Lago has almost intact town walls and is dominated by the ruins of its massive castle, the Castello del Leone, built for the Emperor Frederick II by Elia di Cortona and finished in 1247. The town has an atmospheric piazza and a surprising number of Umbrian food speciality shops. The views out over the lake from the top of the castle tower are worth the climb! Not surprisingly, Castiglione del Lago has been elected to the club of most beautiful towns in Italy and is also a member of the Città Slow movement.

On the slopes of the surrounding hills, not far away from Castglione del Lago, are Panicale and its neighbour, Paciano. Panicale is a well-known Umbrian destination while Paciano is described by the guide books as "without interest". I beg to disagree! Both Panicale and Paciano are well worth a visit, the latter not least for its over-the-top 14th Century Chiesa della Concezione e di S. Giuseppe. Inside the gates of Panicale, two or three concentric streets spiral in to the Piazza Grande. Although documented as early as 907, Panicale in its current forms dates from the 15th Century when it came under the sway of Pope Martin V. The best starting point for visiting Panicale is the Church of Saint Sebastian which houses Perugino's very beautiful fresco of Martyrdom of Saint Sebastian. This fresco takes up the entire rear wall of the Church. The landscape with lake in the background of the painting is the same as that visible from outside the church and is very similar to the background of Perugino's Adoration in Città della Pieve not far away to the southwest. Panicale is also home to the charming Teatro Caporali, dating from 1690 and one of the smallest theatres in Italy.

View over Panicale towards Lake Trasimeno

More castles are located all around Trasimeno, many in the centre of small towns while others are isolated and in ruins. In addition to Castiglione del Lago, Passignano, as well as the islands of Magione, Maggiore, and Polvese are all the location of picturesque castles, while the Castello di Zocco, the Castello di Montali and others are situated on hilltops overlooking the lakes.

There are numerous restaurants and trattorie dotted through the little lakeside towns. Among them are some real gems and, in general, value for money is better than one might anticipate in such a popular area.

The nearest part of Lake Trasimeno is about 25 minutes by car from Borgo di Vagli.

Borgo di Vagli restored mediaeval hamlet in Tuscany Borgo di Vagli has been authentically restored as a Tuscan vacation hamlet. The residences can be bought in the form of fractional ownerships, making a holiday home in Tuscany possible at modest cost. More about Borgo di Vagli fractional ownership.

Fulvio Di Rosa

All content copyright © Fulvio Di Rosa 2013. All rights reserved.

See Agnolo Gaddi's frescoes in the Basilica of Santa Croce at eye level.

From time to time, I try to alert my readers to exciting art shows taking place within reach of Borgo di Vagli, and today my strongest possible recommendation is to spend a day in Florence and see Agnolo Gaddi's frescoes in the Basilica of Santa Croce at eye level. This is literally a once in a lifetime opportunity!

The Basilica of Santa Croce in Florence

Some background: as most of you will know, the Basilica of Santa Croce in Florence is the largest Franciscan church in the world and one of the principal sights of Florence. The church as we see it today was consecrated in 1442 and its most notable feature is its sixteen chapels, many of them decorated with frescoes by Giotto and his pupils. Slightly less famous but equally beautiful is a huge cycle of frescoes above the main altar, The Legend of the True Cross, painted by Agnolo Gaddi in the late 14th century and based on the famous Golden Legend written by the Franciscan monk, Jacopo da Varagine. The expressiveness of Gaddi's figures and the drama of their interactions reveals his debt to Giotto, but the colours and eccentric details are all his own. (Incidentally, these frescoes were one of the inspirations for the cycle on the same subject by Piero della Francesca, painted in Arezzo in the middle of the 15th century.)

Part of The Legend of the True Cross, painted by Agnolo Gaddi

For the past five years, Gaddi's frescoes have been obscured by scaffolding during a major restoration. This restoration is now virtually complete but the scaffolding will be left in place for the summer of 2013 and is open for guided tours until it is removed sometime before Saint Francis' Day in October. Seeing the frescoes at eye level, you can see the attention Gaddi paid even to details totally invisible from below. The restoration has cleaned away centuries of grime as well as the work of the 1946 restoration to reveal a huge amount of detail in bright colours, almost as originally painted. It's also interesting to observe how Gaddi painted the figures on the upper levels larger and simpler than those lower down, to make then seem of equal size when viewed from the floor of the church.

Agnolo Gaddi's frescoes in the Basilica of Santa Croce

Aside from being able to examine the details of the frescoes, from 100 feet up you will also enjoy a totally different view of the church interior - one that won't be possible after the scaffolding has been dismantled. As I discovered when clambering up in the ceiling of the Duomo of Sienna, both the structure and the details of a church become uniquely clear when viewed from above.

The guided tour takes place from Monday through Saturday at 11 am and 3 pm and on Sunday at 3 pm, in either English or Italian. The price is €10 and includes the ticket to visit all of Santa Croce - the church, the Pazzi chapel and the museum. (The ticket for just the church and museum would cost you €6.)

Bookings are required and should be made by email sent to booking@santacroceopera.it. The tour lasts about an hour. The climb up the scaffolding is 90 steps, about 7 floors, with pauses from time to time for the guide to explain the subjects depicted as well as the techniques used to create the frescoes and in the restoration process.

For a quick lunch just 50 m away from Santa Croce, try Finisterrae, Piazza Santa Croce 12.

Borgo di Vagli restored mediaeval hamlet in Tuscany Borgo di Vagli has been authentically restored as a Tuscan vacation hamlet. The residences can be bought in the form of fractional ownerships, making a holiday home in Tuscany possible at modest cost. More about Borgo di Vagli fractional ownership.

Fulvio Di Rosa

All content copyright © Fulvio Di Rosa 2013. All rights reserved.