Getting to understand the Etruscans of Cortona

Lack of extensive written records combined with a wealth of sometimes enigmatic tomb art has earned the Etruscans the qualifier "mysterious", and I guess it's true that they are among the most mysterious of the Mediterranean peoples of any significance. Luckily, here at Borgo di Vagli we have several excellent nearby opportunities to get to understand the Etruscans of Cortona quite well. First and foremost is the fine Museo dell'Accademia Etrusca di Cortona (Etruscan Academy Museum of the City of Cortona), MAƎC for short. This museum compares favorably with the Museo Archeologico Nazionale in Chiusi and the Museo Guarnacci in Volterra.

Museo dell'Accademia Etrusca di Cortona.

The Etruscan Academy Museum is located in the Palazzo Casali, also known as the Palazzo Pretorio and dating back to the 13 C. The Museum was founded in 1727 and between 2005 and 2008 underwent major renovations including much-needed modernisation of the displays. It's now one of the most pleasing archaeological museums in Italy.

An entire if small viewing space is dedicated to the bronze lampadario found at Fratta near Cortona in 1840. This is a magnificent bronze hanging lamp very likely cast for a north Etruscan religious edifice of the highest importance during the 4th century BC. An inscription shows it was rededicated in the 2nd century BC. Under the 18 burners, its iconography includes alternating representations of Silenus playing double flutes and of sirens. Within reliefs of waves, dolphins and other fiercer sea-creatures is a gorgon-like face with protruding tongue. Between each burner is a horned head of Achelous. Don't miss it! It's housed adjacent to the entrance of Room II.

Etruscan display in the Etruscan Academy Museum of the City of Cortona.

In addition to the Museum, there is evidence of Cortona's Etruscan past throughout the town and in the surrounding countryside. Within Cortona, Etruscan remains include parts of the mighty defensive walls, the double-arched gate of Porta Bifora as well as a series of underground sites such as the vaulted arch in the Palazzo Cerulli Diligenti, the barrel vault in the Via Guelfa, and an Etruscan section of wall in the Palazzo Casali itself.

The countryside around Cortona is dotted with "meloni", Etruscan burial-mounds. These can be seen at Camucia and also in the village of Sodo. Tumulo II at Sodo displays imposing terrace-steps decorated with sculptural groups and other architectural elements.

Etruscan Tumulo II at Sodo, near Cortona

At the foot of the hill among the olive groves is the so-called Tanella di Pitagora (Tomb of Pythagoras), an Etruscan monument already known to travellers as early as in the 1500s, the Tanella Angori and the Mezzavia burial site.

A day spend first at the Cortona Etruscan museum followed by a circuit of the archaeological sites around Cortona makes for a very pleasant (and educational) excursion.

Some Etruscan proclivities differed from ours. One was a love of roasted, stuffed dormice (ghiri). These were reared in a large terracotta pot kept in the kitchen and known to us as a ghirarium. The numerous examples in Etruscan museums have climbing shelves built into the walls and air holes. There's a good reconstruction of a ghirarium in the MAƎC. The Roman recipe - possibly of Etruscan derivation - for preparing dormice involves creating a stuffing of dormouse meat or pork together with pepper, pine nuts, broth, asafoetida and some garum (anchovy paste will do), stuffing it into the dormice which are then stitched up and baked in an oven on a tile (180 C for 45 minutes). They are still a popular delicacy in Slovenia. You can also preserve the roasted animals in honey for later consumption. Buon appetito!

Etruscan couple dining in style.

Museum Opening hours:
1 April – 31 October open everyday from 10 am to 7 pm.
1 November – 31 March open Tuesday through Sunday from 10 am to 5pm.
Closed Mondays, closed on 25 December.

Borgo di Vagli restored mediaeval hamlet in Tuscany Borgo di Vagli has been authentically restored as a Tuscan vacation hamlet. The residences can be bought in the form of fractional ownerships, making a holiday home in Tuscany possible at modest cost. More about Borgo di Vagli fractional ownership.

Fulvio Di Rosa

All content copyright © Fulvio Di Rosa 2013. All rights reserved.

A not-to-be-missed art exhibition in Siena during 2013

An excellent new art exhibition, "Resurrexi: Dalla Passione alla Resurrezione" ("Resurrexi: From Passion to Resurrection"), has just opened in Siena and continues until 31 August 2013. The full title of the exhibition is "From Passion to Resurrection, a route amongst the masterpieces of the monumental complex of the Cathedral of Siena for the Year of Faith." It provides a fantastic opportunity to see depictions of the death and resurrection of Jesus by artists represented in the holdings Opera della Metropolitana of Siena. And since paintings of the last moments of the life of Jesus were an important part of the canon of every Renaissance artist, there are some astonishing masterpieces to be seen in here.

Frescoes on the crypt itinerary of the Siena exhibition:
Resurrexi: Dalla Passione alla Resurrezione

The exhibition includes two itineraries, one through the Crypt of the Duomo and the other through the Museo dell’Opera, highlighting specific works of art. Many of these masterpieces are in fact always accessible to visitors who have done their homework, a famous example being the northern gothic pulpit sculpted between the end of 1265 and November 1268 by Nicola Pisano and several other artists. This is actually the oldest art work in the Duomo.

Northern gothic pulpit by Nicola Pisano (1265 - 1268)

However, the exhibition also includes works not usually on public display, particularly many exquisite miniatures as well as the reverse side of Duccio di Buoninsegna’s Maestà, painted between 1308 and 1311 and which depicts the entire cycle of the Passion of Christ. Frescoes are also prominent in the itineraries.

Historiated initial of a manuscript on display at the exhibition
Resurrexi: Dalla Passione alla Resurrezione in Siena.

Sienna is just one and half hours from Borgo di Vagli, making this a worthwhile day excursion for anyone with an interest in art. Highly recommended.

After absorbing so many works of art in the passageways under Siena, you'll no doubt be feeling hungry. My best tip for a meal (at a "like Dina's" place) is Osteria Nonna Gina.

The exhibition opened on 1 March and continues until 31 August 2013.
Hours 10.30 to 19.00. Last admission 18.30.
Tickets: Opa SI Pass: € 12. Free for children younger than 11 years old.
Location: Sienna Cathedral and Piccolomini Library, Museum of the Opera and Panorama from Facciatone, crypt under the cathedral, baptistery, Oratorio S. Bernardino.

Borgo di Vagli restored mediaeval hamlet in Tuscany Borgo di Vagli has been authentically restored as a Tuscan vacation hamlet. The residences can be bought in the form of fractional ownerships, making a holiday home in Tuscany possible at modest cost. More about Borgo di Vagli fractional ownership.

Fulvio Di Rosa

All content copyright © Fulvio Di Rosa 2013. All rights reserved.

Visiting the Val d'Orcia from Borgo di Vagli

Many Fractional Owners at Borgo di Vagli, our restored Tuscan hamlet, comment to me that one of their favourite day excursions is visiting the Val d'Orcia from Borgo di Vagli. For those who haven't visited this fascinating area, I think I can safely say that the Val d'Orcia is one of the most popular areas of Tuscany for visitors to this part of Italy. The iconic wide-sky, sweeping landscapes, the beautiful hilltop towns, the italianate gardens, the art and the culinary specialities and wine all make the Val d'Orcia an area of inexhaustible interest. Depending on when you're here, there are also some great folkloric festivals to be enjoyed. Here I'll indicate just a few of the aspects of the Val d'Orcia that draw me back there again and again. From Borgo di Vagli to Pienza, which is well into the Val d'Orcia, takes just over an hour (43 miles). To Montepulciano, which is in the Val di Chiana but on the same route to Pienza, takes about 50 minutes (30 miles).

Iconic scene in the Val d'Orcia of Tuscany, Italy

Towns and villages characterised by particularly beautiful architecture and a charming ambience:

• Pienza - hometown of the Piccolomini Pope, Pius II, an amazing Renaissance man who created this exquisite Humanist town near his birthplace. Pienza is a perfect case study of what a powerful family can do for its own locality. Pius II brought the best architect – Rosselino, definitively inspired by Leon Battista Alberti  – and most the renowned artists of the time to work at Pienza. No one can miss the huge “gap” between the splendour of the main piazza, the church and the Piccolomini Palace itself and the rest of the very simple, humble village.
• Montalcino and the nearby Abbey of Sant'Antimo where Mass is celebrated with Gregorian chant.
• San Quirico and neaby Bagno Vignoni, a thermal bathing area enclosed in a beautiful Italian square and dating back at least to the Romans.
• The large Benedictine monastery of Monte Oliveto Maggiore located in the Crete Senesi and frescoed during the Renaissance by Sodoma and Fra’ Paolo Novelli.
• Montepulciano, not in the Val d'Orcia but often included in an excursion to the valley.

Formal gardens in the Italian style

• One of the most famous 20th century gardens in Italy is at Villa La Foce, created for the author Iris Origo and her husband by Cecil Pincent.
• The Renaissance garden of the Palazzo Piccolomini in Pienza, with its fabulous view out over the Val d'Orcia towards Monte Amiata. This view is deservedly considered one of the most beautiful in the whole of Italy

A pecorino shop in Pienza, Val d'Orcia, Tuscany

Gastronomy and wine:

• Pienza is rightly famous for its pecorino (ewe's milk cheese) - stock up while you're there!
• Brunello and Rosso di Montalcino wines.
• Vino Nobile di Montepulciano.
• Truffle fair at San Giovanni d'Asso in November.

Castles - because of its strategic position, the Val d'Orcia is the location of numerous picturesque castles, among them being Rocca d'Orcia, Castiglione d'Orcia and Ripa d'Orcia.

More about the sights of the Val d'Orcia.

Borgo di Vagli restored mediaeval hamlet in Tuscany Borgo di Vagli has been authentically restored as a Tuscan vacation hamlet. The residences can be bought in the form of fractional ownerships, making a holiday home in Tuscany possible at modest cost. More about Borgo di Vagli fractional ownership.

Fulvio Di Rosa

All content copyright © Fulvio Di Rosa 2013. All rights reserved.

Where is the best place to park in Cortona?

As many of you will know, Cortona looks deceptively flat on a map but in reality is spread over a steep hillside and has only a single horizontal street. The latter is via Nazionale which runs from Piazza Garibaldi to Piazza della Repubblica and Piazza Signorelli. Together they form the centre of the town. You won't be able to park on Via Nazionale, since it's closed to traffic from 8 am until 9 pm every day.

In fact, the simplest solution to the question of where is the best place to park in Cortona is to use one of the parking areas provided outside the walls. These parking lots are spaced at equal intervals around the town and they are free. One of the best is just below Via Garibaldi because there is an escalator (marked "S" on the map) that carries you all the way up to the piazza and hence onto Via Nazionale. This definitely beats walking up the steep streets of Cortona! Note that there's a shop at the bottom of the escalator that offers a very good range of guide books not only about Cortona but many other areas of Tuscany and Umbria.

Inside the walls, there are often parking spots free on via San Marco or on via Moneti, the street immediately before via San Marco. However, if you park on the street, do remember that if you park where a "P" sign is in place, blue lines mean you pay by buying a ticket from one of the machines nearby, yellow lines mean parking is for local people with a special permit only, and a white line means free parking.

How not to park in Cortona, no matter how fancy your means of transport.

DO NOT park on the yellow cross or under the no parking sign (Passo Carrabile)!

Last but not least, be aware that Cortona, like many other Tuscan towns and cities, has limited traffic zones (ZTL) watched over by automated cameras. If you drive into one of these zones without a permit, sooner or later you'll receive a fine in the mail whether you were driving your own car or a rental car.

Don't let any of this put you off visiting Cortona. It's a wonderful place, readily accessible from Borgo di Vagli, that rewards multiple visits. In later posts, I'll be telling you a bit about some of the important sights there.

Click this link for a printable map of Cortona showing the official parking lots.

More about limited traffic zones in Italy.

More about Cortona.

More about Borgo di Vagli fractional ownership vacation village in Tuscany.

Fulvio Di Rosa

All content copyright © Fulvio Di Rosa 2013. All rights reserved.

Buying hand-painted ceramics from Deruta in Umbria

Buying hand-painted ceramics from Deruta in Umbria makes a pleasant one day excursion from Borgo di Vagli. The picturesque little town of Deruta was a major centre of majolica production during the 15th and 16th centuries. In fact, production of painted pottery began there during the Middle Ages and developed in a rather particular way, partly because of a lack of fuel suitable for high temperature firing of the pots. Metallic lustre glazes in golds and ruby red became popular in Deruta because they don't require high temperatures. However, more importantly, as the decorative designs created by Raphael became known outside of Rome through the distribution of inexpensive engravings, for some reason these were taken up enthusiastically by the potters of Deruta and remain a characteristic part of the modern Deruta style.

A 16th century piece of Deruta majolica

Deruta is definitely worth a visit by anyone interested in ceramic art or interior decorating and is an excellent place to buy hand-painted ceramics directly from the source. After a period of decline during the 18th and 19th centuries, Deruta revived it ceramic workshops and these flourish to the present day. There are now some 200 workshops producing painted pottery in Deruta. Some of the modern majolica is incredibly skilled and even among the more routine production there are many fine decorative pieces. And not just decorative - you can build up a dinner service of these beautiful pieces. I sourced several of the pieces used in the apartments at Borgo di Vagli from Deruta and a number of our apartment owners have taken Derutaware back with them to their homes in other countries.

An example of modern Derutaware

It's about a one hour drive to Deruta from Borgo di Vagli. A recommendable procedure for a majolica buying expedition is to spend some hours looking at what's available and educating your eye, if that's necessary, as well as getting a clear idea of prices, and then to make your purchases. The town itself is very pleasant and there's quite a good museum of majolica there. Deruta is a hill town which means its a good destination for an excursion on a hot day! However, don't neglect the large outlets down on the plain outside of town.

More about Deruta ceramics.

More about Italian majolica.

More about Borgo di Vagli mediaeval vacation village in Tuscany.


Fulvio Di Rosa

All content copyright © Fulvio Di Rosa 2013. All rights reserved.

Is there an economical way to own a vacation home in Tuscany?

A great many visitors to our region are justifiably smitten by the beauty and culture of Tuscany and ask themselves is there an economical way to own a vacation home in Tuscany. One good answer to this question is fractional ownership. This is a form of economical shared ownership that bears a distant resemblance to the timeshare system but with real differences. Fractional ownership means that you own a true share of your physical holiday home, not just some time. This means that you can pass it on to your family, sell it etc. and as the value goes up over time so does the value of your share. It also provides flexibility in when you spend time at your place in Tuscany because one of the tasks of the property manager is to organise the calendar so that availability is transparent and flexible.

Accommodation in the mediaeval village of Borgo di Vagli, which I restored some years ago, is sold using exactly this fractional ownership principle.

The restored mediaeval village of Borgo di Vagli, near Cortona, Tuscany

Borgo di Vagli was an abandoned ruin in the wilds of Tuscany near Pierle Castle when I started restoration in 2000. The aim was to restore the village to its original appearance using, as far as possible, the techniques of the original builders, while providing all the comforts that we require in modern life. I also paid huge attention to the authenticity of the furnishings and the interior decoration. The result is that we now have a happy community of owners who, for a reasonable expenditure, own their own place in Tuscany.

From time to time, I will be posting stories about Borgo di Vagli here along with posts about events and life in this part of Tuscany.

More about Borgo di Vagli fractional ownership village in Tuscany.


Fulvio Di Rosa

All content copyright © Fulvio Di Rosa 2013. All rights reserved.